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“In these bands of hooligans, eyes red from alcohol and cannabis, who threaten tourists, or smash up and burn cars?

” Youth leader Bilo Railati of the Association Jeunesse Kanaky Monde, or AJKM, says the justice system lacks appropriate programs for youth diversion and alternatives to incarceration.

These were followed by three national congresses for Kanak youth between 20.

Other programs focus on cultural activities, tapping the widespread creativity in dance, painting, hip-hop and — the fusion of reggae, rock and traditional Kanak rhythms popular with young people around the country.

Given the opportunity, they surge forward to have their say.

They have similar aspirations — about jobs, sexuality, family life and getting involved in community activities — to their counterparts’ in other island nations.

“There are waves of people going overseas for training, however I think we need to change our structures here at home,” he says.

After the dog reacts to one bag, a young Kanak girl is taken off for questioning.

She returns shamefaced after the gendarmes had rummaged through her bag in front of everyone, waving her underclothes in the air, without finding any (the Troubles).

On the outskirts of town, we’re halted by a contingent of French gendarmes.

The police block both exits from the bus and send a sniffer dog through, searching for drugs.

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